General Categories > Newsworthy
Home robbery - firearms stolen
Mali:
Great info! I had been doing a little research and found some of the info, but I really appreciate the additional tidbits.
Based on your comment about installation (I was thinking the same thing) it would be better to get the safe through a safe company than through the local bulk stores (Cabelas, Scheels), correct?
Atrus:
Hey, guys. First post (I lurk a lot, but this is the first topic I think I have something to add to).
Another thing to think of is locating the safe in a location where the space works to your advantage by denying a thief leverage. I've seen safes installed in a recessed space just wide enough for the safe, or in a corner with the left side butted up against a solid wall and a heavy cabinet that protrudes farther than the safe on the right side, which limits the traveling distance a crowbar has. I imagine you could do something similar by placing it at the back of a narrow or walk-in closet. Granted these require some planning (the ones I'm familiar with were done as part of a house renovation) and it prevents the door from opening more than 90 degrees.
zofoman:
I've seen these in person and they are what they say they are. The next safe I buy will be from here. http://www.armoryexpressoutlet.com/SAFES--VAULTS-CUSTOM-CLICK-HERE_c_226.html
They are not cheap, but they are excellent investments than can be passed on to family members some day.
depserv:
If a good safe weighs 800 pounds or more and being filled with guns I suppose could bump it up even more, is there any risk that a floor might collapse under it? Maybe someone here knows more than I do about how much weight a typical floor can safely hold. And how about nontypical floors? Is there a code on how much weight a floor is supposed to be able to hold? Just a few things to consider. A basement floor would be ideal, but not everyone has that option.
unfy:
I guess it's been too long since I've logged in here - didn't realize there were replies. Oops.
As for an update to the Stoeger that was recovered...
The Bellevue PD has it. I've been in contact with Sgt. Milos etc. Friendly guy.
Apparently being able to produce a receipt / other paper work speeds up the process of getting the firearm returned to you. While digging through my firebox, I have been unable to find stuff... willing to bet it was a thermal paper receipt that just faded to white over the years. The fact that other things appear to be missing from the fire safe is very annoying and entirely my fault. Grrrr.
I had bought it from Cabelas, and you can get copies of paper work from them. Need to talk to the NICS counter by the firearm counter. Their ATF Administrator (or some title along those lines) will need to be there and they will be able to pull the information for you. When I went this morning (been a busy time at work lately), she was not there today, etc. It was suggested to call in advance so things can be prepared and make sure she's there etc.
$150 safe vs bigger.
My "safe" was a cheap stackon gun cabinet. It'd keep the curious and little hands out of it, but obviously was no good as a 'safe'.
Safes are all about 'time' or discouragement.
The bigger, the heavier, the more obtuse - the better.
Lets say I had my cabinet bolted to the floor and wall. A $5-$10 pry bar would have still either gotten the cabinet open or the cabinet removed from it's anchors.
For use as a safe, go big and heavy.
Boobytraps.
NO NO NO NO NO
Boobytraps are legal suicide.
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