Ammunition & Hand Loading > Cartridge and Shotshell reloading

Reloading 5.56x45/.223 Rem

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mott555:

--- Quote from: JAK on December 03, 2014, 04:20:03 PM ---Check the back of the cartridge case and see if it as a small cross in a circle.  That is now NATO cartridge cases are marked.  Also most of the small arms ammunition comes from the Lake City Depot and is marked LC and the year of manufacture.  If you have either of those the cases are 5.56.   
--- End quote ---
I'm finally sorting through my brass, and it looks like all my brass is NATO, marked LC 11..

So 5.56 reloading data is definitely an option for me..

tstuart34:
watch your primers with "556" loads. make sure you are not showing over pressure signs. some primers are not as hard as mill spec. i wouldnt get to worked up om 556 vs 223 find something your rifle likes and stick with it.

Dan W:
I don't usually post reloading data, but my pet load is

mixed brass trimmed to 1.750"
Hornady 55 gr PSP w/cannelure
24.3 grains of H335
Magtech  #7 1/2 SR primers
COAL 2.220" (seat to cannelure) No crimp
Ave 2890 fps measured by chronograph
MOA or better 10 shot groups @100 yards

As usual, reduce starting loads and work up and look for accuracy nodes and pressure signs. Max load for this recipe is around 25.4 gr

SS_N_NE:
Some random thoughts about reloading from this thread:

Check out a box of factory ammo sometime. COAL is usually all over the place. Sometimes bullets vary in shape. The factory has no idea at all what will work in your firearm's particular chamber. And, what is the factory's concept of "working up" and nobody checks for pressure signs.

Cartridges for auto loaders are going to be fairly loose to function. Using a "factory crimp die" (with or without an actual crimp) ensures auto rounds chamber.  Finding the distance a bullet likes to be from the barrel rifling and the amount of pressure the bullet likes to be thrown down the barrel seem to be the big goals. Published COAL is usually the "short" version (minimum) or some factory bullet-to-rifling number, but is rarely explained. A .020" to .030" lead seems to be a good starting point. Quite often a lower pressure (less popellent charge) results in better shot placement...but depends on range being used as well as a number of other conditions.

You are basically guessing if you don't have a chronograph. But, that doesn't mean you can't reload decent ammo.

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