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Ruger MkIII take down

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SemperFiGuy:
Odd How That Works................

I've owned, maybe, six or seven Ruger Mark-whatever .22LR handguns, starting w/a Mark I that I bought for $37.50 in an over-the-counter, straight cash, no-nuthin' in the way of ID proof purchase a long time ago.

On all of them the bolt stop pin came out nicely with just a pull.

But not the 22/45 that I currently have.   And--evidently--not your current handgun, either.

Hope you didn't bang it up too much.

sfg

Burkdoggy:
It's got some scratches but the worst part is the pin needs to be hit to get it back in place.  Probably why I got a good deal on the pistol.  Never had to struggle with one like this before. 

SemperFiGuy:

--- Quote ---the pin needs to be hit to get it back in place.
--- End quote ---

FWIW,

I also always use the same RCBS inertia bullet-puller hammer to knock the bolt pin back in place during re-assembly.

Probably the C-arc in the recoil spring guide, where it fits against and retains the bolt pin, is a bit smallish in both our pistols, causing excessive interference and friction.

Whatever, that condition is not nearly so bad as the "canted barrel syndrome" that owners are complaining about in the S&W revolvers these days.

My bigger problem w/the 22/45 is that the fixed rear sights are locked slightly left and they won't move to the right, even with the Magic Green RCBS Inertia Bullet-Puller Hammer.   Nor will the sights move w/a peening hammer and brass punch.  So I have to use Kentucky Windage to hit target centers consistently.

And-----I really, really hate to use Kentucky Windage on any firearm.

sfg

shooter:
on quite a few ruger 22 pistols. ive had to use a small cratex pad in a dremel to open the hole just a touch.

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