Ruger MkIII take down

[Burkdoggy]

Trying to get my MkIII disassembled and the bolt stop pin won't budge.  Anyone have suggestions?  Not my first one of these pistols but it's the first time I couldn't take one apart. 

Thanks in advance!

[SemperFiGuy]

OK...........

By now you've probably opened the housing latch (thingie that starts it all) and lifted the mainspring housing lever (attached directly to the housing latch) all the way up to clear the backstrap as much as possible.

And.........the bolt stop pin won't move (that's what you said), probably by twisting and pulling down on the mainspring housing assembly.

My bolt stop pin is quite stubborn, too.   Just won't come out with a healthy, twisty pull on the mainspring housing assembly.  No matter how hard I pull and twist.   Stubborn.

So, what I usually do is either:

1)   Take my hard inertial-impact green plastic RCBS bullet-puller device and give the bolt stop pin a good, hard whack on top, or

2)   Take a short (2ft long) soft pine 2X4 and likewise whack the bolt stop pin.

[Neither the plastic bullet-puller nor the soft pine have ever marred my Ruger in any way, which is why I use them.]

The bolt stop pin always come out with either (1) or (2) procedure.

I have no (3) to offer.


Putting it all back together after cleaning is totally another Chinese puzzle.   Best to shoot it a lot so you clean it a lot and remember all the disassembly/re-assembly steps between times.


FWIW,

sfg

[Burkdoggy]

No dice.  I'm going to have clamp this in a vise & get rough with it.  I look forward to putting back together at this point. 

[SemperFiGuy]

Geez..........   Too bad.

The only device holding the bolt stop pin is the sideways force from the recoil spring guide.   And the recoil spring isn't all that strong.

Unfortunately, I've not got much else to offer at this point.   Maybe squirt in some Kroil.

Good Luck. 

sfg

[Burkdoggy]

Got it out.  Hated to use a punch but it worked.  The pin is ridiculously tight for the application. 

[SemperFiGuy]

Odd How That Works................

I've owned, maybe, six or seven Ruger Mark-whatever .22LR handguns, starting w/a Mark I that I bought for $37.50 in an over-the-counter, straight cash, no-nuthin' in the way of ID proof purchase a long time ago.

On all of them the bolt stop pin came out nicely with just a pull.

But not the 22/45 that I currently have.   And--evidently--not your current handgun, either.

Hope you didn't bang it up too much.

sfg

[Burkdoggy]

It's got some scratches but the worst part is the pin needs to be hit to get it back in place.  Probably why I got a good deal on the pistol.  Never had to struggle with one like this before. 

[SemperFiGuy]

the pin needs to be hit to get it back in place.

FWIW,

I also always use the same RCBS inertia bullet-puller hammer to knock the bolt pin back in place during re-assembly.

Probably the C-arc in the recoil spring guide, where it fits against and retains the bolt pin, is a bit smallish in both our pistols, causing excessive interference and friction.

Whatever, that condition is not nearly so bad as the "canted barrel syndrome" that owners are complaining about in the S&W revolvers these days.

My bigger problem w/the 22/45 is that the fixed rear sights are locked slightly left and they won't move to the right, even with the Magic Green RCBS Inertia Bullet-Puller Hammer.   Nor will the sights move w/a peening hammer and brass punch.  So I have to use Kentucky Windage to hit target centers consistently.

And-----I really, really hate to use Kentucky Windage on any firearm.

sfg

[shooter]

on quite a few ruger 22 pistols. ive had to use a small cratex pad in a dremel to open the hole just a touch.