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CLP Question

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unfy:

--- Quote from: bkoenig on April 19, 2012, 12:33:28 PM ---Plus Hoppe's is a well known aphrodesiac.  Just ask Unfy.

--- End quote ---

WHY DIDN'T I SEE THIS THREAD?!?!?

Hehehehe.

Anyhoo, I like my babies to be nice and clean.  After every trip to any range, they get cleaned.  If I'm lazy one month and don't go to the range, I still clean my carry pistol just get rid of all the lint.

Hoppes #9 is a fine generic multitasking cleaner IMHO.  It's not ultra harsh, but it'll get most things nice and clean.  It's sexual benefits are beside the point  >:D

Birchwood Casey make a Lead Remover Cloth.  It's great on stainless... but has to be used with some care on blued guns.  Gets rid of the ring marks on my S&W 686 357mag with minimal effort.  When working up a load for lead bullets, I tend to run a patch through my barrel a few times afterwards also... really seems to help knock the leading loose (semi autos and revolvers). 

The stuff that the BC LRC has impregnated in it can be bought off the shelf to rub into your own cotton patches as well if ya feel the desire.  Pro Shot (sold at the BH and a few other places) also has a similar cloth.  Basically it'll look kinda like sheep skin and it has a distinctive odor.

For general CLP - I'm not a huge fan myself.  When ya wanna run an oil patch over the barrel and stuff as final cleaning step... the thought of having a mild solvent mixed in just don't sit well with me (see also wood & poly stocks).

Hank:
Well unfy, I have been out of town for a spell and not much for internet..that`s my excuse.
Suggestion for those using Hoppes #9; I still use the plain #9, but the #9 Benchrest Copper Solvent is MUCH more effective for copper removal yet mild enough to leave in the bore overnight. Inexpensive too.
+1 on those lead removal cloths that unfy mentioned; I have used them on SS and they do work good.

DangerousDrummer:
I am sure I will regret posting this but I am a absolute Froglube fan. My ARs have never had anything else used on them.

Before I ever shot them, I stripped all of the petro base lube, heated every part with a hair dryer and applied the FL until wet (it keeps soaking in when hot). I then allowed the parts to cool, wiped down the parts and reassembled. The gun feels completly dry which is why it does not collect dirt, until shooting, at which time the heat opens the molecules of the metal and the hot parts are wet again until cool. My LCPs never attract any lint, and all my guns cycle like butter.

The application must be done while the metal is hot, and the parts must be petro free in order for FL to work. It is tedious process to apply the first time, but gosh are my guns easy to clean ever since the first application.

I FL my cases when resizing and loading, my PC  bullets before seating,  and have treated my presses and dies. I even apply it on my cutting tools after sharpening while hot.

So blast me if you must, but I am a Froglube fan and will never ever use petro products on my steel again. Still trying to figure out how to get it in my engines though.

BTW, it is certified safe to eat by the FDA and since I have chemical allergies, I find that quite attractive.

Gary:
Mil-Comm  Can purchase under the NRA brand.    Some you tube videos showing them head to head against Frog, looking for rust.

http://www.nraguncare.com/

Mil-Comm has PTFE in it.  Good stuff.  CLP also has PTFE.   I stick pretty close to lubes with Polyfluorotetraethylene.

Mobil 1 car oil is also pretty good, on the other side of the coin. 

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