Building a flintlock- winter project

[wallace11bravo]

So I have this 90% complete flintlock rifle build that my dad started when he was a teenager. He finished building 2 others, and Vietnam cut this one short.

At this point, I just need to do some minor sanding, tack in the brass inlays, brown the barrel, and linseed oil the stock and it *should* be finished, but I have little to no idea of what I am doing, and my dad doesn't remember much anymore.

My main worry is that I'm going to split or damage the stock when I tack in the decorative brass inlays. Also, do I linseed oil then put the inlays in, or inlays in first?

It'll end up being one of those "shoot one time and hang on the wall" projects.

Anyone ever done anything like this before?

[bkoenig]

Ok, I'm jealous.  I've always wanted to build a flintlock.  http://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx has a lot of reference books that can point you in the right direction.

[SemperFiGuy]

Wallace11Bravo:

Might be helpful to gently, slowly, and very cautiously pre-drill the decorative tack holes into the stock to guide the tack shafts.

Thin drill bit should be sufficiently undersize as needed to firmly hold the tack shafts and give them the intended in-to-stock direction.   [Tacks and small nails often behave like Bad Little Boys when you are trying to drive them in a certain direction without pre-drilling.]

If you should choose to pre-drill, beware breaking off the tiny, slender drill.   A home-built fixture might help.

Best of luck on this excellent project.

sfg

[gsd]

SFG is right John...you'll definitely want to pre-drill, usually with a bit that is 1/16 smaller than the tacks you want to drive in. That way you don't have any splitting, but there is still enough material and tension to hold the tack in place.

Linseed oild prior to tacking, otherwise you run the risk of low spots or not enough coverage.

[SemperFiGuy]

Coupla Thought-Offerings on Stock Finishing:

Boiled Linseed Oil was the Gold Standard for gunstocks for many years.  [Actually, I still use it twice every day.   In the form of 1500mg Flaxseed capsules.  Which is what it is.]

However, linseed oil has its critics:   www.doublegunshop.com, for one.

There are alternatives:  tung oil (also has its critics)

There are newer blends:  Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, GB Lin-Speed
Wouldn't try any of 'em without testing a coupla sample pieces first.

You might give thought to calling Steve Reynolds, Omaha area gunstock maker for his advice.   He's a Happy Guy and will be happy to talk gunstocks with you until you're tired of the topic.  Steve can be reached at 402 208-8080.   [You can tell him his CHP instructor sent you.]

You only want to do this job once.   And you want it to turn out as the perfect crowning glory of the flintlock.   To match the beautiful blue of the barrel.

Best of success.


sfg

[gsd]

I've used the BC tru-oil. Its great for a hunter stock, but for something that will drooled over it is not an option. It leaves a tacky feel, and lacks the lustre and shine normally associated with a beautiful  piece of firearm history, be it original or a reproduction.

[ghknives]

Are you going to stain the stock? Most woods found in earlier kits would hardly take stains. Fiebing leather dyes  work great and can be blended to the desired color.

[bkoenig]

This stuff is a traditional stain for long rifles:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/392/1/AQUAFORT-2