Ammunition & Hand Loading > Cartridge and Shotshell reloading

The only dumb question...

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abbafandr:
I'm getting started in reloading also, whatsit.  I picked a Lee turret press.  I like the fact that each die can adjusted and left, and that it can be used in single stage mode until I get the feel for each step. 

Hank:
Yep, as has been mentioned any brand of dies will work (7/8"-14 iirc), however the shell holders may be press specific. If the press your looking at takes the quick change bushings, I suggest you get at least a half dozen extras...for starters..lol

SS_N_NE:
I have a newer Lee Classic cast iron breech lock press. It is single stage, not a very high price for the quality. I am a machinist and the Lee deluxe Pistol Dies for .45 and 9mm I have been using are outstanding quality and finish. The deluxe die sets have the carbide inserts that will not wear out, pretty much not affected by dirt (but clean your brass anyway). There is an extra Factory Crimp Die that sizes auto load cartridges to a standard size (so I don't use the crimp on the seat die). I use a Lee universal decapping die to remove primers from all brass since it doesn't size the brass and grind any dirt into range recovered brass. After the brass is clean, the other dies don't suffer any abuse so the carbide should last even longer/nicer finish. The breech lock is nice since you use adapters (Similar to Hornady lock-n-load but not compatible...different locking shapes) to hold each tool in a set position, and it takes only a 1/6 turn to change a tool out. When put back, a tool is already set (bullet seating will need to be checked and set if bullet shape/brand etc. is changed).  This makes the single stage press a little easier to deal with initially. Otherwise you have to screw each die in and adust each time the die is used. The size, bell, and final size/crimp can usually stay set. Reloading is just done in batches where a number (25, 50, 100, etc.) where all the brass is (decapped and cleaned...my process), decapped/sized, belled, powder filled, bullet seated, factory size/crimp as separate operations. Of course for your accuracy loads, some different processes may apply...a reloading book is your friend and has all the details.
In contrast, Hornady was (is?) making their die inserts with TiN (Titanium Nitride) plating. A very tough coating used in industrial cutting tools. However, my experience is that TiN is often put over crappy tooling and results in a quick tool breakdown. With quality machine tooling, where a high quality carbide is coated with TiN, the tool lasts longer and takes more abuse. On crappy tooling (Chinese) where a lower quality base material is used, TiN is tossed on to cover up the base poor quality resulting is low usage before failure.  Unfortunately, except for well recognized machinist tooling, cheap TiN coated stuff should get a weary critique.  Not knowing the base material of Hornady dies, I would be concerned about using their dies...maybe they are OK...just my unfortunate experience of having tooling covered in TiN to disquise a poor tool...the price is often a giveaway...not so much in reloading dies.
Check to see if your auto press of choice has the option to disengage the auto part and be used as a single stage. That can make introduction easier, adapt to accuracy loads and later pump out higher volume when everything is figured out.

SS_N_NE:
Just to add to above.

Carbide is a very hard tooling metal. It is typically used for lathe and mill tool bits that have to suffer high pressure and heat in metal machining operations.  Carbide is usually very brittle and sharp tooling is easily chipped, but in the inserts used in reloading dies, there is nothing subject to chipping abuse and carbide will be very resistent to damage. Brass will never hurt carbide. Dirt on the other hand may not hurt carbide but will end up being forced into the brass when passed through a die. The Lee universal de-capping die doesn't size brass and only pushes out the primer. This universal de-capping makes for an extra reloading step, but you don't press any dirt into your dies or brass minimizing scratching or damage of either brass or dies. The Lee depriming dies (both universal and in the sets) have a punch on a collet that is designed to give if the rod is jammed into something that will not move. The rod can usually be reset or are $2.00 to replace (lifetime replacement...but postage and trouble makes having a spare a good idea...}have pressed out thousands of primers without fail...and occasionally hit rocks that got inside a case without hurting the rod buy using good judgement when an obstruction is felt (or a berdan primer gets in the mix of brass).

whatsit:
Wow, thanks for the great info, everyone. I've used a regular press. I was impressed with how long everything took. It just seemed like a seriously slow process. However, I do see the reason for the recommendations for non-progressive presses. I'll think about it...

If I got an RCBS die set for 9mm, is there going to be a mismatch between them and the pistol cartridge shell plate for a non-RCBS press? A seating die would seem like it would be sensitive to a problem like this, but again -- I haven't seen a lot of presses and don't know what the standard type of adjustments for a die are.

Anyway, thanks for the great info, everyone!

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