Ammunition & Hand Loading > Cartridge and Shotshell reloading
Powder Coating Lead Bullets
bkoenig:
Hmm...so I wonder if the ones with the uncoated bottoms were getting some leading from the powder vaporizing the base of the bullet. Interesting.
I was thinking today, if you're going to set them in the holes nose down I bet you could the take a flat board or sheet of metal and set it down on the bases to straighten them all out. That would give you a more even coat around the nose.
unfy:
--- Quote from: bkoenig on April 01, 2013, 07:43:18 PM ---I was thinking today, if you're going to set them in the holes nose down I bet you could the take a flat board or sheet of metal and set it down on the bases to straighten them all out. That would give you a more even coat around the nose.
--- End quote ---
Possibly. Maybe. If ya look at the thing I made above... and just visualize it yourself a bit too... you'll note that the cookie sheet aint exactly a perfectly flat sheet with holes drilled in it. It warps and bends and stuff.
If it was a thick piece of weldable steel or something, then it'd be all kinds of precise and shouldn't warp.
I'll note that the cookie sheet thing didn't warp during cooking... which they usually do (I use others of the same for cooking at home) ... and DD's post shows his sheet metal warping in the oven.
unfy:
To copy/paste from the CB thread:
Actually... take your spring loaded idea and instead have:
|B|--- --|?|SSSS|B|===
Where B = a metal bar, --- is a tack / nail / etc, S is a compression spring, and ? is some way of attaching the spring loaded nail/thumbtack/whatever to the spring, === being the bit of the spring guide rod that free floats out the other end.
If your guide rod is |===== shaped, a small folded over bit of metal in a C shape would possibly do.
This would get you to tack/nail points to press against the tip and nose of the boolit with a quick release mechanism for sanity.
Would have to make sure the tack/nail/brad you use is of decent length so that it doesn't shadow / interfere with the PC application.
I'll hit hardware store and eyeball this. Springs through local sources can be difficult to be had at 'sane' costs (we are talking 50-200 springs).... but can be had online at better prices. Barring a spring, if the bar is tapped, a bolt with an easy-enough-to-grip head would be a valid alternative (welding wingnuts sounds applicable)... you should only need 1-2 revolutions to apply enough force on the pins.
Sheet metal / whatever base, has tacks / nails on 1 inch centers.
Bars are held above it that have either a spring loaded contraption or just a threaded holes that push another nail / tack downward.
Thus, you have a bullet nose and base being held in place via a couple 'needles'.
Make the bottom nails long enough enough that the PC gets under it just fine...
As far as 'easy to grip bolt head' -- i'd venture a wingnut between two other nuts would work as something to manipulate with fingers ?
A fun question with something that's threaded like that... how does powder coat in the threads affect stuff ? :)
SS_N_NE:
I was trying to imagine using a reloading press to press a hole in the base or tip of a bullet allowing it to set on the bead of nails type holder. Seems to get too complicated.
Seems it would be simpler to set up a fixture on a drill press and just drill the holes with a small bit.
unfy:
--- Quote from: SS_N_NE on April 01, 2013, 08:44:07 PM ---I was trying to imagine using a reloading press to press a hole in the base or tip of a bullet allowing it to set on the bead of nails type holder. Seems to get too complicated.
Seems it would be simpler to set up a fixture on a drill press and just drill the holes with a small bit.
--- End quote ---
Ya might be able to get away with a VERY small hole when using a press... but... otherwise ya gotta be careful. Swaging dies have hollow point tips and stuff, but the dies are all kinds of beefy :).
Lastly, if you press a spike into a bullet, where does that excess lead go ? You'll be sizing the bullet eventually anyway... but... yeah. Still a valid concern probably.
A 40s&w 180gr bullet is about 1/2 inch in length if I recall correctly. At pushing a nail in 1/4 of an inch, how much are you deforming the bullet ? Do you really need 1/4 inch ? would an 1/8th or 3/16ths do ? I dunno.
Lots of folks chuck their case trimmers to portable drills or such and trim cases WITH POWER heh. Never been a fan of that idea myself, but I don't trim ALOT of cases anyway. Anyhoo, you can usually chuck a drill bit in the case trimmer just fine as well ... case trimmer cutting edges have a hole with a tension bolt that's used to change out mandrels for different caliber cases - why not throw a drill bit in there ? etc ...
In fact, if you look above, DD did just that, put a drill bit in his case trimmer ;).
Cabela's has the lyman case trimmer for $99 (seems high?):
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lyman-Universal174-Carbide-Case-Trimmer/753206.uts
A powered one for $230ish i think. A drill adapter for $30. RCBS powered one is $300 i think ?
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