9mm handloads......

[JimP]

I am going to start handloading 9mm, because I have more time than money............. What's everybody's pet load using 115g bullets?

[Chris Z]

If you ever have a chance to pick up some 147 grain bullets they are much softer shooting.

I used to shoot 115 grain in my competition loads, but I was frustrated by how slow the reactive steel targets fell. I tried a 147 grain load, and not only did the steel fall much quicker, the loads shoot a whole lot softer!

I load 3.7 grains of Winchester Super Field powder.

1.10" OAL

Either a Rainier Plated Hollow point or a Zero Jacketed Hollow Point

[Administrator]

If you ever have a chance to pick up some 147 grain bullets they are much softer shooting.

I used to shoot 115 grain in my competition loads, but I was frustrated by how slow the reactive steel targets fell. I tried a 147 grain load, and not only did the steel fall much quicker, the loads shoot a whole lot softer!

I load 3.7 grains of Winchester Super Field powder.

1.10" OAL

Either a Rainier Plated Hollow point or a Zero Jacketed Hollow Point

+1

When I was on my 9mm kick, I loaded nothing but 147 grain bullets with Unique powder. Sorry...don't have the load data at the moment.

[JimP]

Well, cheap being the important factor, and 115g jacketed being what I have to work with............

[Ram Ringer]

I reload for the 9mm for practicing. I use 5 grains of W231 behind a winchester or remington bulk bullet either jhp, or fmj 115 gr. I haven't shot long distance with it but at 7 yards it works great in my S&W sigma.

[PhilK]

Small pistol primer, 4.4g Bullseye, 115g projectile.

They headspace on the rim of the case, so trimming each one to the correct length is essential.

The Speer reloading manual has a discussion specific to 9mm reloading.  I can't find it online.  They note that, given the small case volume, even small variations in seating depth (too deep) can cause dramatic increases in pressure.

I've used Surplus, Winchester bulk (FMJ and JHP), and Berry's plated (all 115g) with reasonable results.

PhilK

[JimP]

They headspace on the rim of the case, so trimming each one to the correct length is essential.


PhilK

Your cases stretch so as to need trimming?!?!?  I have not loaded much 9mm, but I have stuffed a crapload of 45 ACP......... never had a need for the Lee trimmer dealy I bought: all the cases are the same length, even the ones that have been fired so many times you can barely read the headstamp............

[Chris Z]

I always trim my rifle brass, but have never trimmed a pistol case. I load mine over and over and over until they split or get lost. 9-357mag-40-45

[JimP]

I have trimmed some of my heavier .357 loads........ probably not absolutely necessary as case headspaces on the rim, but for a uniform crimp, would case length not have to be uniform?

[Randy]

I have trimmed some of my heavier .357 loads........ probably not absolutely necessary as case headspaces on the rim, but for a uniform crimp, would case length not have to be uniform?

Not so much as chamfering your Brass does.
But what do I know I clean primer pockets also.
1911 forum tore me up after I posted that.

[PhilK]

They headspace on the rim of the case, so trimming each one to the correct length is essential.


PhilK

Your cases stretch so as to need trimming?!?!?  I have not loaded much 9mm, but I have stuffed a crapload of 45 ACP......... never had a need for the Lee trimmer dealy I bought: all the cases are the same length, even the ones that have been fired so many times you can barely read the headstamp............

I scavenge brass wherever I can, and have found the stuff to be all over the place in terms of length.  I find in the long run it is more efficient just to sort them by headstamp and then trim them all to the same length, rather measuring each one and sorting them by length.

The other thing I didn't go into was that consistent length brass makes for a consistent crimp after the projectile has been seated.  The way I use to determine if I am properly crimping is to take the barrel out of a Browning Hi-Power, place the round into the chamber, and press lightly with my thumb.  If the crimp is correct, the round should fall out of the chamber when one upends the barrel.  If it sticks in the chamber, there is not enough crimp.

Here's an interesting article on 9mm reloading that shines a bit of light on having the cases all be as close as possible to the same length:  http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/9mm_reloading.htm

PhilK

[Randy]

Max Cartridge Gauges work fantastic, I have three calibers. All Wilson's. Check every round the go no go tool.

Check all critical dimensions of straight wall cartridges - mouth diameter, base diameter, rim thickness and diameter, case and overall length and bullet diameter.

From Midway USA below

L.E. Wilson Max Cartridge Gage 9mm Luger Product #: 888465
$17.99

Lyman Max Cartridge Gage 9mm Luger Product #: 595577
$12.79

[JimP]

I also bought those when i frst started reloading....... before I figured out that I could just use, you know, like,  the ACTUAL chamber they would be fired in for the same purpose........

[Randy]

I also bought those when i frst started reloading....... before I figured out that I could just use, you know, like,  the ACTUAL chamber they would be fired in for the same purpose........

Yes your barrel will work, i still prefer the Max Cartridge Gauge.
The firearm chamber does not measure the max. cartridge length.
These precision made gauges allow the reloader to check the case length, diameter and overall cartridge length of pistol ammunition. This inspection is considered mandatory for those who want ammo that must be reliable for their competition or defense.
They are just plain easy to use.

Whatever your way of measuring your finished ammunition as long as you are measuring is my point.