Ammunition & Hand Loading > Cartridge and Shotshell reloading

I am finally handloading .223

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Dan W:
Time has come for a few new reloading posts...I have recently become aware of a problem with my quality control related to case sizing.

I was boxing up some 55 gr Hornady SPP  loads, and decided to case gauge them as I went. 

My findings were not good.  :(  Many of the lot of 200 were too long in the headspace area. I surmised the  problem had been a loose die that had backed out a few thousandth of an inch and I failed to check it.  ::)

Since I only bump the shoulders back about .003", I wanted a way to test the cartridges in an exact way, so I put in an order to Midway for a Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage Set with Comparator.
.
This tool makes it possible to set the shoulder bump exactly, and to measure the results. Different brass appears to react differently, especially if your lubing technique is inconsistent.

I found, using the comparator gauge, that many cases were .003" longer than the fireformed brass I was using as a zero point. That means a big jam, or not going all the way into battery...not a good thing.

Now I have concluded that I need a special die called a BODY die that only re-sizes a case body and shoulder without resizing or otherwise disturbing the neck.

That means that I can re-size the long cartridges while assembled, and not cause any damage to the bullet or the neck tension and crimp. 

Now I can feel confident that I won't embarrass myself by blowing up an AR15 at the GIRC meeting :o

Dan W:
I am bumping this thread up to make it easier to find by new members

unfy:
Good to see the progression.

Shouldered brass without a full length resize can indeed be slightly troublesome.

I forget earlier posts in the thread, but since you're going for tighter tolerances ... if you haven't separated your brass by brand yet -> do so.  You should also full length size all of your brass at least once and trim and shoot - then work from the fire formed versions.  You're already doing so, but keep lotsa notes - including on how each brand of brass behaves and such.

Concerning old discussion on boat tail etc.  The base of the bullet is very critical.  If you notch the base of the bullet, your MOA will change more than if you bent the spitzer tips over with a hammer.  There's a video somewhere about it with demonstrations.  If boat tail vs other tails are better or not... shoot'em and decide for yourself.  For plinking, I'd just suggest whatever makes loading the bullets easier ;)


And ... seeing the tooling progression, I see you're fully bit by the evil reloading bug.  Downward spiral ahoy! :) hehehehe....

ONE OF US
ONE OF US
ONE OF US

welcome to the club  >:D

SemperFiGuy:
Kinda like those movies where they bring in the Brand New Zombie to meet all the Old Zombies.

sfg

Dan W:
I am bumping this to the top for new members to find it easier

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