NFOA MEMBERS FORUM
Ammunition & Hand Loading => Cartridge and Shotshell reloading => Topic started by: Dan W on July 11, 2009, 09:34:58 PM
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It has all come together. ( I think ?)
Last piece I needed was a Dillon case/headspace gauge.
And I decided to upgrade my single stage press to a 4 hole Lee Classic turret.
Redding 2 die set (full length resize), plus an optional carbide free floating neck sizer (to eliminate the need to lube inside the neck)
Redding Case lube (applied by a lube pad )
Redding shell holder
Redding powder trickler
Hornady primer pocket cutter (for removing crimp)
Lee Auto Prime hand priming tool
Lee Universal Decapping die (to remove crimped primers)
Lee case trimmer, deburring tool and Lee perfect powder measure
Franford Arsenal loading blocks.
And since I already reload tons of pistol ammo, I have the requisite tumbler, digital calipers,ccccccc Digital and mechanical scales, bullet puller etc. I might still need to upgrade to a collet style bullet puller for rifle boo-boo's
Now I have cleaned, resized, trimmed to 1.750", deburred, removed the primer crimp and re-primed 300 cases. If that sounds like a lot of work...it is.
I will be trying out Hodgdon H335 and Ramshot TAC powder... first up 23.5gr H335 behind a 62gr Amscor FMJ COL 2.250" Magtech SR primer. Brass is TW73 headstamped M193 surplus, once fired in my rifles. A light crimp into the cannelure will be applied
Definitely not the highest grade components, but I thought it best to learn on something less expensive(and actually available)
Once I have mastered learned the techniques I will try to produce some consistently accurate hand loads for my 18" RRA Rifle.
If any NFOA members have suggestions to help me achieve this goal, I would appreciate the help. I am a total noob when it comes to reloading bottle necked rifle cartridges
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I use the same press as you, a lot of people bag on them for being cheap, but I've had excellent results with mine.
I've heard H335 is supposed to be good stuff for .223 but I haven't tried it yet. Varget has worked well for me, too. 25.5 grains of Varget with a 55 grain Vmax bullet is my .223's favorite load.
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As you probably know Varget has been very difficult to obtain lately, so when I came across 3 lbs of H335 at Acher Arms a few weeks back, I snapped it up.
What COAL are you using the cartridge you mention above? I would like this thread to be a record for future handloading. Give me all the particulars for your pet load
I find the Lee Classic turret press to be very smooth and the heavy cast iron base quite stable. I really like the tube for catching spent primers. I am not using the auto advance or the primer ram, as I am prepping brass and priming in batches until I am really comfortable with the process. This press is allowing me to head-space the brass very accurately compared to the inconsistent results I was getting from the Lee C frame I had previously. That cheap little press is good for applying a Lee final crimp die to pistol cartridges or for a quick removal of a damaged primer , but not much else
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I reload .223 as well with a set of Lee Dies as well as an RCBS X-Die.
If these will be for an AR with lots of high-volume shooting, get an X-Die. The X-Die prevents case growth during the sizing process. One initial trim is all you need!
For case trimming, look at a Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer. It chucks into a drill and works like a pencil sharpener. The adapter for the trimmer also fits an RCBS chamfer and deburring tool (which can also remove crimp).
For OAL, I generally seat/crimp to cannelure. For bullets without a cannelure, I load them long enough to fit in the magazine with some room for error, generally around 2.250".
I've used RL7 for light bullets and Varget for 68gr OTMs. The rest of my loading is with H335 and 55gr FMJBTs. Comparable powders include TAC and AA2230. I charge cases with a Lee Pro Auto Disk and ball powders like TAC, AA2230, and H335 meter very well with it.
When I started with .223, I was over-crimping. This flared the shoulder and caused jams, so, don't over-crimp.
I'm also paranoid about using "soft" primers like Federals in my AR, so I run CCI, either the standard SR, magnum SR, or #41 military.
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Rich, Not a lot of info on the Magtech SR primers, but a few reports have found that the cup is of sufficient thickness and hardness for AR15 use.
And, I over crimped the hell out of my first 5, then got the adjustment down to where it just takes the sharp edge of off the neck. It takes 9-10 hard whacks with a kinetic bullet puller to get them babies back out.
Do you mind sharing your recipe for 55gr FMJBT's and H335?
I have already figured out that my 18" RRA likes 55's much better than PRVI 69gr Match cartridges. That might not be the best in match ammo either...The Armscor 62gr bullets are not very consistent in OAL or Ogive, thus not real accurate, but IMHO good enough for me to learn the ropes
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Here's my recipe:
55 Grain Vmax
25.5 grains Varget
Winchester brass trimmed using Lee case trimmer (don't recall length, but it's set by the length of the trimmer and can't be adjusted)
Federal SR primer
COAL 2.26
Roll crimped using Hornady bullet seating die.
Unfortunately I'm out of Varget so I need to try something new. I have about 75 rounds left that I loaded this spring and I've been hoarding them.
In my Savage 12FV with a 26" barrel and 6-18 Swift scope I can put 5 shots into a half inch at 100 yards. I haven't done much shooting with that rifle since buying it so I haven't gotten it out further than that. I mean to take it to one of the 300 yard benchrest days at the Ikes some time and see what it can do. I've also done some work to the gun that helps accuracy - filled the flimsy factory forend with epoxy to stiffen it, floated the barrel, and bedded around the recoil lug and action pillars.
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There is a 300 yard informal shoot at the Lincoln Ike's this Saturday...
I will be at the Ike's, but I am shooting the Rock your Glock match with my son for his birthday.
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Work up a load, you'll probably be between 23 and 25.5 grains of H335. I'm around 23.8-24.2, IIRC. I was running hotter, but it wasn't giving me better results. I don't want to go too low, since I want enough gas to cycle the gun.
Those Match Kings might work better with Varget, RL15, or 4064.
For 55gr FMJBTs, pick up some Hornadys. They're reputed to be the best and I've always had good results with them. Your experience with the Armscor stuff reflects what I've heard elsewhere.
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I just received notice that my back-order from Powder Valley has shipped. So I will be GTG with powder and primers for some time.
Anyone have any thoughts about using flat based bullets vs boat tailed? I see many flat based available when lookin for the other. I they harder to load or just different?
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Boat tails are slightly easier to load since they slip into the case mouth a little more easily.
I *think* they're more accurate too. IIRC, most match bullets have boat tails.
BTW, when did you place that order with Powder Valley? I have an order from April I'm waiting on...
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Boat Tails also have a better coefficient of drag thud are faster.
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The back of the bullet affects accuracy. If something happens to the flat back bullet while loading, it could cause the bullet to tumble.
A lot of years ago, I believe it was a European country, tried to make thier 556 bullets tumble to cause more damage when hitting a human torso. They basically ground a uneven point on the tip of the bullet, which did nothing to make it tumble. I saw some of these at Grand Island gun show a year ago. A fellow NFOA member had them. I signed him up, don't think he participates on the forum though.
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Boat tails are slightly easier to load since they slip into the case mouth a little more easily.
I *think* they're more accurate too. IIRC, most match bullets have boat tails.
BTW, when did you place that order with Powder Valley? I have an order from April I'm waiting on...
April 17...ordered H335 and CCI SR #400
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I was just seeing a lot of flat based varmint bullets that were available, while all the FMJBT are sold out.
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The back of the bullet affects accuracy. If something happens to the flat back bullet while loading, it could cause the bullet to tumble.
A lot of years ago, I believe it was a European country, tried to make thier 556 bullets tumble to cause more damage when hitting a human torso. They basically ground a uneven point on the tip of the bullet, which did nothing to amke it tumble. I saw some of these at Grand isalnd gun show a year ago. A fellow NFOA member had them. I signed him up, don't think he participates on the forum though.
go read this:
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot37.htm
....... ya learn sump'n ehvree day........
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Neat article Dan, however those are not the same as what I saw. Those are extreme and would not function in an M16 with that type of bullet design. It is easy to see why those would tumble, and not function in an autoloading rifle.
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.... glad you liked it...... but my name is Jim......
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Sorry Jim, I would have known that if I was paying better attention.
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I need to figure out how to make an avatar..... I managed it over at ccwne, but it it took more time than I have.......
edit...... that didn't take long at all.......
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Today I test fired 50 rounds of H335 handloads at 23.5 and 23.7gr. A fellow shooter at the Ike's range let me fire a round over his chronograph and the result was 2921fps for the 23.7gr load. Accuracy was about 2 MOA, with the lighter load slightly better, and I still have my doubts about the Armscor 62gr bullets. No signs of excessive pressure and no blown primers.
These bullets are varying +/- 1 grain in weight and all weigh more than 62gr (average weight is 62.5gr) and they go as high as 63. I am also having major issues with inconsistent COL, varying as much as .015" (2.245"-2.260"). Target COL is 2.250"
I have decided to load the rest of the Armscor 62gr for plinking only @23.5gr H335, as I have the most of that powder.
I also fired 20 rounds loaded with Ramshot TAC -24gr under the 62gr bullets. Functionally they worked fine, but I had about the same issues with accuracy.
Today I ordered some Hornady VMAX 55gr(flat based) and some Spire Point 55gr. I will see if I can get a better grouping from a quality bullet
Now I am wishing I had a chronograph...another $100...
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Dan, boat tails are a "can of worms."
#1). If you want this in great detail you will need to find a university grade physicist. Basically, as I get it, as the bullet passes thru the fluid, air, it makes a hole. Then the fluid/air collapses behind it. As long as the bullet is above the speed of sound, approx. 1100 fps, there is a vacuum behind the bullet and the bullet is not effected by the collapse. In theory, the vacuum is dragging the base of the bullet "back..." !!
When the velocity falls below 1100 fps, then the collapsing air "drags" on the base of the bullet and any imperfections such as jacket displaced by rifling and may effect accuracy...
So the first question, when does your bullet reach the velocity of 1100 fps and below. Is it within the range you will be using the "system" (gun and ammo) and be effected. Hornady ammo with 75 grain bullets at 500 yards is still going 1750 fps per company claims... You shoot that far?
#2). Mr. Corbin, Dave (swage.com or corbins.com or ???) has his book "Rediscover Swaging #" on his web site for reading, download, etc. He expresses the opinion that with calibers as small as .22 and .24 the boat tail has no appreciable effect. Wasted effort/money for civilian uses.
#3). The reduced size base does make it easier to get the bullet started in the mouth of a resized case. There was a time that boat tails were more costly. Worth it? Your call.
#4). There is an on going discussion of the effects of the "funnel shape" (reverse funnel???) of the bullet base and the insides of the barrel. If the jacket does not obdurate perfectly and seal the bore, then the funnel helps the hot gases find this avenue of leakage and escape accelerating barrel wear. Not of the greatest concern to the civilian shooter but a "big deal" to military use where full auto's spit out hundreds per minute...
Thus the concept of "rebated boat tail." The reduced size of the base causes the fluid flow over the bullet to be directed in the streamline shape. At the same time the "squared off base allows for more uniform distribution of gas pressure to push on the base of the bullet. (And, allegedly, reduced barrel wear... again, not of greatest concern to civilians.)
#5). THEN comes GENEVA. The nicer part of this argument is that the soldier on the battle field is not necessarily a "bad person." Therefore it is not "fair" to shoot this person with an expanding bullet much more sure to cause immediate death. It is more "fair" to use a FMJ that only wounds. The less nice reality is that a soldier shot with a soft point/hollow point and dies quickly, well, no further concern need be expended until graves registration picks up the remains. At the same time, a soldier that is "wounded" and needs attention will absorb the time of 4 or 6 or more attendants.
War is basically attrition. One side wears down the other side until they can fight no more. Making them take care of lots of wounded helps use up their resources...
Point: the boat tails used by the military are FMJ but designed to wobble/tumble upon striking flesh and cause a greater wound and still comply with Geneva rules... The stories are legion. The British .303 loaded with a bullet that has an aluminum plug in the tip (or wood)... you can find samples. Many 55 grain bullets, flat based have been fired successfully thru a 1 in 14 twist. Military wanted this "tumble" and 1 in 14 wasn't quite enough so they went 1 in 12 at first for the longer boat tailed bullets...
Of course we have better barrel steel today and no one likes to remember that the faster twists wear more quickly.
So, if you are going to put on a uniform and go play war, you will be issued a marginal boat tailed bullet that should enhance wounding and remain within the Geneva rules. Otherwise, you do as all civies do, you take what you can find, powder, case, primer, powder, and see how well you system (gun) likes it and how well you can use it... LUCK.
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Well, I guess I will find out about loading some flat based Hornady V-MAX 55's this weekend
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Today, after putting out the "oh crap, my king size water bed has a big leak" fire today. I was able to get back to some .223 handloads.
First up...prep the surplus brass I shot up last week. 40 pieces takes a while to remove the crimped primer, relieve the crimp, resize and trim.
Then I made a decision, based on multiple inputs, to try 24 grains of H335 under the 55gr Hornady bullets. I also decided to set the COL by seating both bullet types to the cannelure with a light crimp. The Hornady 55gr VMAX were a consistent 2.245". And without changes to the seater die, the 55gr Spire Points were centered on the cannelure with a COL of 2.220"
Tomorrows weather may be a little too hot for me to test fire any, but Sunday ... maybe I can get that 1 MOA group.
For me that would be a feat. NO GO - rained out
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I had a chance to test fire my Hornady handloads today, BTW a very nice day for shooting.
Both the 55gr VMAX and the 55gr Hornady Spire points were very accurate loaded at 24gr H335. I am very happy with these loads, but may adjust upward slightly, to see if I can improve accuracy. The Spire points are about $13 per hundred, and will likely be my preferred load.
I need to try both types of Hornady bullets with Ramshot TAC powder also.
Another shooter at Lincoln Ike's suggested I try the 50gr VMAX, as he has had great results in his Bushmaster with a 1x9 twist barrel.
Then, he let me fire his Armalite AR10... AWESOME ! and I was surprised that the .308 recoil was very much less than I anticipated. Plus, it had a very nice Armalite match 2 stage trigger and a Nikon scope, that even I could shoot well. Thanks Scott, and it was nice to meet you.
I was also able to test my plinker load (Armscor 62gr @23.5gr H335) in my other two RRA midlength carbines and they run great. So I plan to load the remaining 800 bullets ASAP
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Thanks for the follow-up, Dan.
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"#2). Mr. Corbin, Dave (swage.com or corbins.com or ) has his book "Rediscover Swaging #" on his web site for reading, download, etc. He expresses the opinion that with calibers as small as .22 and .24 the boat tail has no appreciable effect. Wasted effort/money for civilian uses."
Entirely plausible- just look at ballistic coefficients for light (say 55 grain .223) bullets..... BTSP and SP of the same weight: little difference. Then look at the BC's for 150 grain .277's, both BTSP and Spire point: big dofference past 400 yards in velocity/trajecory/energy. Fairly simply to verify- Shoot them.
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New chronograph arrived today. Very basic model from Competition Electronics
http://www.competitionelectronics.com/pages/Prochrono_Pal.html
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After working the Cabela's membership drive today, I picked up some 50gr VMAX and 55 fmjbt Hornady bullets for more experimentation...
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Today I had a couple hours on the range checking out the new chronograph. I was pretty happy with the 50gr VMAX load, as it it nearly identical in accuracy to the 55gr VMAX w/cannelure with a slight edge to the 55gr bullet.
Load data
50gr VMAX, 2.260" COL, 24.5gr H335, average velocity 2919fps Magtech SR primer TW73 brass
50gr VMAX, 2.222" COL, 24.5gr H335, average velocity 2900fps Magtech SR primer TW73 brass
55gr VMAX, 2.245" COL, 24.2gr H335, average velocity 2850fps Magtech SR primer TW73 brass.
It's pretty obvious from the data that I am on the low side all around for velocity. Next time out I will add .5gr powder to the 50gr load and bump the 55gr up to 24.5gr. I may also try COL of 2.260"(max for magazine use). As I understand it, that will increase both pressure and velocity, and I think I have some room to work in both areas.
Accuracy for all these loads is a consistent 1 MOA, results mostly due to operator inconsistency.
But I can feel my technique starting to smooth out each time I shoot. Maybe I'm not all that far from hitting pdogs at 200 yards
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I have had good results with the 110gr .277 VMAX...... good bullets, though they print consistently 2 inches left of my hunting load's(150gr SIE GK) zero........
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Damn...Looks like I accidently deleted my last post... anyways, today I found a Redding powder measure in the pawn shop and stole it for $32.50. It is the Model 3 Redding, sans the bench bracket. I am using it in an old Lee C frame press with the lever and ram removed.
I was able to throw 50 perfect 24.5gr throws this afternoon using H335.
The Redding equipment I am using now are the 2 die set in .223 (full length resize) with the carbide free floating neck sizer, The Redding powder trickler, and now a Redding powder measure. So far no regrets for spending a little more for quality
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Gettin there...1.3 MOA (incuding the flyer) Hornady 55gr Spire Point 2.200" 24.5gr H335 2910 FPS average
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa61/LJUnaTIC/th_TgtGfx3.jpg)
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I decided to try out some Ramshot TAC powder with heavier bullets. Today I got my hands on some Hornady 68gr Match HPBT, Hornady 75gr HPBT & Sierra 69gr MatchKing HPBT.
Load work up for the 68 and 69 grain bullets will start at 23.8gr of TAC and COL is 2.260".
The 75 grainers will start at 22.5gr TAC . I found it interesting that the 68 and 75gr Hornady hollow point boat tails are the same length.
Now I just need to wait for the miracle January thaw to occur...anyone know if Ramshot TAC is temperature sensitive ;D
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Some recent developments... upgraded equipment.
Bargain bin Redding Model 3 powder measure found at a pawn shop - found the needed mount and a baffle. I saved $100 and it is super precise with the ball powders I am using, TAC and H335
Upgrade to Possum Hollow case trimmer. The Lee setups work, but it is a lot of work...hopin' this cuts some case prep time with equal precision.
Added a Hornady cam type bullet puller and collet for easy bullet removal without damage.
Upgrade? Made up a stuck case remover set...you can guess why. I also decided to try a different (better?) case lube in Imperial Sizing Wax. I have read many good things about this stuff, waiting to try it out.
Added a Daniel Defense Omega Rail to the Rifle. I guess I will see if free floated barrels are a real accuracy improvement.
I also lightened the 2nd stage of my RRA match trigger about a pound, previously it was 3 lbs 1st stage and 3 lbs 2nd stage. Now it is 3 and 1.5 lbs approximately.
Here's to the mythical sub MOA group
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try some winchester 748 i've been loading my ar15 rounds with it and using a 70 vld bullet by berger and for a gas gun its grouping exellent i
have a 1:9 twist and was thinking about a 60gr v max does anyone know if that will staiblize alright with the barrel twist it takes a couple shots with the vlds to take a coyote down at around 200 yards
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Finally some range time today! The 100 yard range at the IKE's was not as busy as I expected, but the walk to the target was a pretty mushy and wet.
Right off the bat, I shot a .912 MOA group with the Hornady 68gr Match over 23.8gr of Ramshot TAC. I think the stringing is caused by using a bipod instead of bags. I will need to check that on my next trip
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa61/LJUnaTIC/Hornady68match238TAC.jpg?t=1268011709)
The 69gr Sierra and 75gr Hornady also stabilized well in my 1x9 twist RRA barrel.
My old standby Hornady 55 SPP still holds a decent group even in a semi rapid fire test.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa61/LJUnaTIC/Hornady55SP245H335.jpg?t=1268012273)
I think I need to make up some shooting bags for my next trip if I want to get the full potential out of the heavier bullets.
BTW the IKE's had a large group of kids and parents today for the Hunter Safety course. Great to see the future of hunting and shooting in Nebraska is still alive
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Dan, are you preloading the bipod? Leaning forward on the rifle a bit to put some pressure on the springs. This should help steady it up some. What model bipod are you using?
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My bipod is a Harris BRM-S 6-9" on a Larue Tactical QR mount.
My friend Gunscribe asked me that same question, and frankly I forgot about it today.
With all the changes I had made this winter, I had to sight in a new scope, adjust to a lighter 2nd stage on the trigger, and I was chronographing and recording data at the same time.
I think my best groups will come when I focus on one thing, and pull all the technique together without thinking about it. Just like anything else , it's a process I have to learn.
It took me 10 years to break 100 straight in trap the first time.
I will get this right too...eventually
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Tomorrow my work gets put to the test. Hope to be shooting prairie rats by Scott B's place after the Kearney gun show
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Well only a few dogs would show their heads after I killed the first two, so we ended up playing with some other toys Rob Androyna was very nice to lend out ;D
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Time has come for a few new reloading posts...I have recently become aware of a problem with my quality control related to case sizing.
I was boxing up some 55 gr Hornady SPP loads, and decided to case gauge them as I went.
My findings were not good. :( Many of the lot of 200 were too long in the headspace area. I surmised the problem had been a loose die that had backed out a few thousandth of an inch and I failed to check it. ::)
Since I only bump the shoulders back about .003", I wanted a way to test the cartridges in an exact way, so I put in an order to Midway for a Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage Set with Comparator.
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This tool makes it possible to set the shoulder bump exactly, and to measure the results. Different brass appears to react differently, especially if your lubing technique is inconsistent.
I found, using the comparator gauge, that many cases were .003" longer than the fireformed brass I was using as a zero point. That means a big jam, or not going all the way into battery...not a good thing.
Now I have concluded that I need a special die called a BODY die that only re-sizes a case body and shoulder without resizing or otherwise disturbing the neck.
That means that I can re-size the long cartridges while assembled, and not cause any damage to the bullet or the neck tension and crimp.
Now I can feel confident that I won't embarrass myself by blowing up an AR15 at the GIRC meeting :o
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I am bumping this thread up to make it easier to find by new members
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Good to see the progression.
Shouldered brass without a full length resize can indeed be slightly troublesome.
I forget earlier posts in the thread, but since you're going for tighter tolerances ... if you haven't separated your brass by brand yet -> do so. You should also full length size all of your brass at least once and trim and shoot - then work from the fire formed versions. You're already doing so, but keep lotsa notes - including on how each brand of brass behaves and such.
Concerning old discussion on boat tail etc. The base of the bullet is very critical. If you notch the base of the bullet, your MOA will change more than if you bent the spitzer tips over with a hammer. There's a video somewhere about it with demonstrations. If boat tail vs other tails are better or not... shoot'em and decide for yourself. For plinking, I'd just suggest whatever makes loading the bullets easier ;)
And ... seeing the tooling progression, I see you're fully bit by the evil reloading bug. Downward spiral ahoy! :) hehehehe....
ONE OF US
ONE OF US
ONE OF US
welcome to the club >:D
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Kinda like those movies where they bring in the Brand New Zombie to meet all the Old Zombies.
sfg
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I am bumping this to the top for new members to find it easier
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Bumpin'
....done a fair bit of experimenting with .223/5.56 since this thread was started ..... found that a 53 gr TSX driven to 3K f/sec with a max charge of IMR 4064 works well on small deer at short range if they are broadside, and you don't hit the leg bone ...... not so well if one or more of those IF's ain't .....
a 50gr Zmax/Vmax over 1.6cc of H322 makes a good milk jug busting round .....
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I am also working up a 62 gr TSX load, but my recent knee surgery kinda slowed the process a bit
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I bought a box of the 62gr TSX and a pound of CFE 223, intending to work up a stouter deer load for my daughter ...... but then decided I needed to stop fiddling around trying to make a varmint round into a deer killer, and built a .308 WIN for her....... PSA had a great sale and the gun works really well.
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I enjoyed reading this thread - thanks guys!
So my reloading experience: I started about 1.5 yrs ago with a Lee single stage assembling 9mm rounds, just to learn the process. Last year around this time I bought a Savage 12FV in 223 and put a Nikon Monarch-3 on op of it. What a great rifle to learn on! I've been learning how to load rifle cartridges. Tried H335, Varget and CFE223 and a bunch of different types of bullets on top. I've hit targets at 600 yds but mostly shoot 100 yds. I'm comfortable with stating I can shoot 1moa, maybe better with my 12FV though I haven't settled on the "right recipe" yet as I am learning the process along with the gun and the whole precision shooting concept.
I just got my first gas rifle - a Seekins NX15. Excited about learning a bit more about loading for it but also realize that loading for an auto, I need to take into consideration the action puts the cartridge through. Anyway hope I learn enough to not break my expensive rifle.
I now have a Lee turret press and am loading 38/357, 9mm 308 and 223
Scared myself with a squib load - handed a friend my 686. Didn't know I had a squib load. Fortunately I saw it and had him pause before the next shot. My take away from this is to put a nice strong light directly in my press and check every case before putting the pill on top. This is not a hobby that can tolerate mistakes like this. Anyway hope someone can heed a lesson from my write-up.
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I've been rolling my own for ...... well, since the Clinton Administration ....... just started .223/5.56 the last couple of years ...... those tiny bullets are a PITA on a single stage press .......
if you have any questions jscenck, I have answers ..... might not be the right ones, but I've learned quite a lot in the last 20 years ......
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I started loading in 1975, I had a type 6 ffl to make and sell reloaded ammo for years.
If you are loading .223 for a semi auto, you must use small base dies, RCBS makes them
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011716114/rcbs-small-base-2-die-set
and a C&H taper crimp die, Ive tried all the brands and these work best, some people make combination seater -taper crimp, they DONT WORK, stick with what works,
also must trim the brass after sizing. that's the biggest problem people have with reloading brass, slightly different lengths of brass will collapse the shoulder when seating a bullet. only slightly, but enough to not allow the case to chamber
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also must trim the brass after sizing.
Do What Shooter Sez.
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First,
Check to see if the brass needs trimming. If you don't have a Go-NOGO gauge, no problem. You can set your vernier calipers for the maximum trim length and then lock them down with the locking screw. Then use the calipers as a NOGO gauge.
If the case is too long, then camming the bolt will cram the neck of the case hard into the throat of the chamber. Doing so will add X-tra bullet crimp at the cartridge neck. With X-tra hard crimp, chamber pressures can be raised up to NO-NO Levels. You will want to avoid the higher chamber pressures.
[Otherwise, the fired cased will then be hard-stuck in the chamber and the bolt will not open. Then you will hit the bolt with your rubber mallet from your car trunk. Then you will learn that bolt-handles are brazed on, not integral with the bolt. You will look for the bolt-handle in the tall grass. Hopefully, you will find it. Eventually. Then you will be glad your brought your Second Rifle in the Same Caliber, so that you do not have to drive 250 miles back home, muttering Things Your Wife Doesn't Want You to Say. I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS MYSELF. Just Sayin'.... Best to trim the cartridge cases.]
If the case is too long, then set your cartridge case trimmer down to the minimum. Then trim, debur, and chamfer, inside and ouside the neck. Will get more shots between maximum case neck "growth" that way.
RECOMMEND: Neck-sizing (only) if you run these cartridges back through the same bolt-action rifle each time. Use Full-sizing if you shoot the cartridges through a semi-automatic rifle.
Have Fun. Be Safe.
sfg
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All good advice, mistakes can be costly in more ways than one. :o