NFOA MEMBERS FORUM
General Categories => Help! => Topic started by: JeremyP on April 19, 2012, 08:32:58 AM
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I'm going to get my first handgun today and I want to learn as much as I can about maintaining it.
I've ordered and received a cleaning kit for my .45 1911, but inside the kit I found a single bottle of CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative).
In the videos made by Regent, they showed how to disassemble, clean and re-assemble the 1911 and used two different bottles, one is a solvent (I believe is GunZilla) and the other is gun oil.
My question specifically, is whether I should use the CLP or get separate cleaning fluids as they show in the Regent video.
Regent Pistol Breakdown (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdjodLM6sIc#ws)
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I personally prefer a true solvent for cleaning. CLP is ok as a lube and for keeping fouling from sticking to your gun, but for getting it off a good solvent works a lot better. Really, CLP is kind of a product that does ok at a lot of things but not great at any of them.
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Hoppes #9 and remmoil are the way to go. I started also using some gun scrubber (basically brake cleaner) after I use solven to spray it all off, then whipe with oil
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+1
CLP works great for lube, and okay for cleaning when you have no other option, for field stripping. For a good at-home cleaning kit, get hoppe's #9 for solvent.
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As folks have said CLP is a good general cleaner, I carry it in my range bag and when I go hunting; it works if you need to do a quick clean and lube. But for actual maintenance I also prefer using products made specifically for the task at hand ie Hoppe's (especially if I have shot any lead) and a lubricant made for firearms.
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Plus Hoppe's is a well known aphrodesiac. Just ask Unfy.
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Thank you for the advice everyone, I'll look into getting some Hoppe's No. 9.
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Ditto, I tend to use the CLP in the field (that is if I ever had a need to shoot) and after a day at the range along with a boresnake. Then the Solvent/Lube/ Cleaning Kit process during a rainy day firearm scrubbing session.
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+ 1 on the Hoppes #9. Drives the women wild.....
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+ 1 on the Hoppes #9. Drives the women wild.....
Not sure about wild, perhaps mad is a more accurate word. ;D
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i use Hoppe's #9 to do the bulk of the cleaning and then finish off with CLP or RemOil before putting them back in the safe. ill use some thick oil or Gun Butter as my main lube.
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X2 on the hoppes #9 solvent.
I just picked up a Froglube solvent/CLP kit to try out. Its supposed to be really good. But Ill be the judge of that. Ill post back again after I try it this weekend.
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I just picked up a Froglube solvent/CLP kit to try out.
Let us know your thoughts on the Froglube. I was not impressed. Used it on a 1911 and Sig 220. After about 6 months in the safe pulled them out and looked them over. Both slides seemed to have a "gummed up" action when racking them. Very sluggish. Cleaned them up and went back to old faithful Militec. Can't help but wonder if I used it "wrong". Sure smells nice, though.
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I'm one of those weirdos that primarily cleans with CLP. Granted, I'm also the type that rarely uses a bore brush or any kind of strong solvent in any of his barrels also. I've found that when I get my barrels really clean, they shoot off zero until they get dirty again. So now I just get the big chunks out with patches and CLP. Leave in almost all the copper. Doesn't seem to hurt accuracy much but then again, I'm not huge into shooting small groups all the time either. :P
CLP seems to do enough for me. If I need more, I bust out the good ol' GI toothbrush (nylon or brass bristles) and give it a few good passes. Not much I haven't gotten cleaned up.
The one cleaning exception is the piston on my Mossberg 930. That thing gets just plain filthy. That soaks in Slip 2000 carbon killer for a good 30 minutes before a rinse down in hot water, a wipe off and spray with compressed air and then a re-oiling.
Contrary to what others found, I thought CLP was a pretty lackluster lubricant. I had much better results using Breakfree's Lubricant Protectant (CLP without the cleaner) because it was a lot thicker and seemed to lubricant far better. That stuff works great. I also really like Slip 2000 EWL for lubrication.
Try a few products, decide how clean you want to get things and see what works best for you. :)
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I don't worry as much about getting my guns super clean as a lot of people. I just try to keep excessive dirt out of them and keep them well lubed. The exception is anything I shoot black powder in, like my 45-70, and my Remington 700. I try to keep the bore really clean on that gun since it's my attempt at building a precision rifle, but it doesn't seem to accumulate much copper anyway so it's not too hard.
What's funny is that a black powder gun is about the easiest thing you'll ever clean, contrary to popular belief. Just some hot water to get the fouling out, maybe with a little soap, then dry it and oil it with a natural lube.
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Plus Hoppe's is a well known aphrodesiac. Just ask Unfy.
WHY DIDN'T I SEE THIS THREAD?!?!?
Hehehehe.
Anyhoo, I like my babies to be nice and clean. After every trip to any range, they get cleaned. If I'm lazy one month and don't go to the range, I still clean my carry pistol just get rid of all the lint.
Hoppes #9 is a fine generic multitasking cleaner IMHO. It's not ultra harsh, but it'll get most things nice and clean. It's sexual benefits are beside the point >:D
Birchwood Casey make a Lead Remover Cloth. It's great on stainless... but has to be used with some care on blued guns. Gets rid of the ring marks on my S&W 686 357mag with minimal effort. When working up a load for lead bullets, I tend to run a patch through my barrel a few times afterwards also... really seems to help knock the leading loose (semi autos and revolvers).
The stuff that the BC LRC has impregnated in it can be bought off the shelf to rub into your own cotton patches as well if ya feel the desire. Pro Shot (sold at the BH and a few other places) also has a similar cloth. Basically it'll look kinda like sheep skin and it has a distinctive odor.
For general CLP - I'm not a huge fan myself. When ya wanna run an oil patch over the barrel and stuff as final cleaning step... the thought of having a mild solvent mixed in just don't sit well with me (see also wood & poly stocks).
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Well unfy, I have been out of town for a spell and not much for internet..that`s my excuse.
Suggestion for those using Hoppes #9; I still use the plain #9, but the #9 Benchrest Copper Solvent is MUCH more effective for copper removal yet mild enough to leave in the bore overnight. Inexpensive too.
+1 on those lead removal cloths that unfy mentioned; I have used them on SS and they do work good.
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I am sure I will regret posting this but I am a absolute Froglube fan. My ARs have never had anything else used on them.
Before I ever shot them, I stripped all of the petro base lube, heated every part with a hair dryer and applied the FL until wet (it keeps soaking in when hot). I then allowed the parts to cool, wiped down the parts and reassembled. The gun feels completly dry which is why it does not collect dirt, until shooting, at which time the heat opens the molecules of the metal and the hot parts are wet again until cool. My LCPs never attract any lint, and all my guns cycle like butter.
The application must be done while the metal is hot, and the parts must be petro free in order for FL to work. It is tedious process to apply the first time, but gosh are my guns easy to clean ever since the first application.
I FL my cases when resizing and loading, my PC bullets before seating, and have treated my presses and dies. I even apply it on my cutting tools after sharpening while hot.
So blast me if you must, but I am a Froglube fan and will never ever use petro products on my steel again. Still trying to figure out how to get it in my engines though.
BTW, it is certified safe to eat by the FDA and since I have chemical allergies, I find that quite attractive.
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Mil-Comm Can purchase under the NRA brand. Some you tube videos showing them head to head against Frog, looking for rust.
http://www.nraguncare.com/ (http://www.nraguncare.com/)
Mil-Comm has PTFE in it. Good stuff. CLP also has PTFE. I stick pretty close to lubes with Polyfluorotetraethylene.
Mobil 1 car oil is also pretty good, on the other side of the coin.