NFOA MEMBERS FORUM
Ammunition & Hand Loading => Cartridge and Shotshell reloading => Topic started by: skydve76 on January 22, 2012, 09:07:51 PM
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Please inspect my process and let me know if I doing it wrong:
-Neck size the cases, which also presses out the used primers. I do use some lube. I neck resize only so there is a slight pinch on the bullet in order to save wear and tear. I only have one gun that first this and its bolt action.
-Then I tumble them 50 at a time for about an hour.
-Then primer, powder, bullet, measure etc.. I dont recall the exact measurment or powerder but I do go on the weaker end of the powder and I use 150g and 180g bullets. If you need that info let me know but its out of the book for the poweder which is IMR 4831. I use the lower end of grains it specifies and the bullets are hornady.
The length of the bullet and casing are within specs after I am done reloading.
One issue I am having for some reason, the cases are starting to stick into the die. They go in very easy, and about half way out of the die they get stuck and I have really get some torque going to get them out. Originally this was not the case but after the 2nd relaod this is happening.
There is a bright ring forming down by the rim.
Am I doing something wrong? If you need exact numbers I can look them up, havent reloaded for 6 months and am doing so now. Just thought I would ask the experts if they have any suggestions.
The brass I am reloading is on its 3rd time.
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You need to lube the inside of the case neck as well as the outside. Also, every 50 rounds or so, clean your die. I've found the carb cleaner or brake cleaner work well for this.
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What is That Thing? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ppTv-7VDjA#)
Some all-in-one electric case prep stations also have this...
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I use to lube the inside of the necks but now and only when I necksize I tumble them first and it removes the carbon on the inside of the casenecks and its easier than lubing the necks and taking a chance of weaking the powder charge with lube.
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re: lube interfering etc
Using the mica, it shouldn't be a problem... and is a quick to perform step just before sizing ?
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skydve76:
Your post didn't provide a picture. Nevertheless, the "bright ring forming down by the rim" is potentially a matter of serious concern to reloaders.
One cause for that bright ring is excessive headspace.
On firing, pressure inside the cartridge case forces (clamps) the cartridge case firmly against the inside of the chamber, holding the front end of the case tightly in place.
If there's excessive headspace, then the head of the cartridge moves backwards, stretching the brass in the case, making it very thin at the bottom of the cartridge case down by the rim.
Evidence of this condition is usually in the form of a bright ring around the case, near the rim.
The case is very thin at that point AND MAY BLOW VIOLENTLY. Which you do not want.
SUGGESTION:
In the interests of your safety, be willing to sacrifice one case. Cut it lengthwise with a bandsaw or a hacksaw. Look for thinning in the wall section near the bright ring.
If thinning is found, DO NOT fire a round which evidences the bright ring. It's a KA-BOOM waiting to happen.
sfg
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You can also try the paperclip trick to check headspace. Open a paperclip and rub it on the inside and if you feel a lot of room where the ring is then I would toss them all. Saves you the trouble of cutting them up.
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Thanks guys for the responses. The gun a savage Ba-110. I could not imagine it having headspace issues. I forgot to mention the carts are banded, so the ring is right above the band. Does that change things? I'll check it out, if the round is stretching I can compare it to a new round of the same brand and should be able to tell do you think?
Let me get a pic too.
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The gun a savage Ba-110.
:o Drool!