ne bull:
Yup, vibrating stuff is one route commercial platers go. Circuit boards are in a basket that rocks back and forth, and in general use - large rotating drums are quite common as well. All of these also agitate the solution as they move / etc.
Part of the malfunction of what I'm trying to do is..... getting a setup that is easy to work with, does a decent coat of plating, easy to do en-masse, and lastly is home-friendly.
Soooo... I've been avoiding buying specialty chemicals (re: easier to work with). I've been avoiding the strong acids and strong bases (re: home friendly). And I refuse to touch arsenic and such (durrrr heh).
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The scaffolding and hanger system gives a 'decent coat', works for varying definitions of 'en-masse'.... but it's failing the 'easy to work with' bit.
A rocking back and forth basket used in circuit board stuffs really isn't going to work out for bullets. They would still need to be individually secured somehow etc.
Big rotating drum - this is the self contained stuffs of the big boys. Out of my league.
Slowly rotating basket - has possibilities now that I've gotten beyond my retardation of thinking I need a metal or titanium basket. A plastic basket with only a handful of wires ran around the inside dimaeters would do nicely. Would require some engineering to rotate the basket while it's in the liquid (does it need to be wholly submerged the entire time ? i doubt it).... and a powerful enough motor (or geared down enough) to rotate it. One hundred 180 grain bullets weigh around 2.5 pounds. Low RPM motors are fairly easy to find online and there might be store solutions as well (how slow do rotisseries or ceiling fans rotate???)
Vibrating plate - also has possibilities. Would I be vibrating the whole tank, or just the basket / plate thing that holds the bullets ? Can I build a non-metal plate with some spread out copper contact points ? How much movement is needed to keep the bullets jossling around ? How much do they need to jossle ? Again, working with around 2.5 pounds. I doubt a trip to Dr. John's to buy their cheapest feminine toy would provide enough vibration....
One of the reasons I'm trying to avoid metal baskets / plates / etc -- is waste of the anode material and other clean up concerns.
I am by no means an expert..... but...
Striking is applying a thin coat of something. Not a physical hammering. It's typically used as a 'glue' between whatever you're base item is and what you're trying to get it to bond to -- particularly if you want stronger bondings or if your base item doesn't like to be plated by your target coat. You can also apply an initial strike of something in order to improve the coat of your final (ie: the strike has affinity for both the base and final coats). *Maybe* you could also do a top coat of some other protective material as a top coat (akin to polyurethane ?).
Given that I've had a good coat of copper on my lead with decent bonding, I don't think an initial strike (of say, nickel) is needed. I believe a nickel strike would still require proper surface preparation (physical abrasion and/or etching). Again, I'm not an expert, but maybe a nickel strike would bond the copper to the lead better ? Completely out of my ass -- I'm not a chemist nor metallurgist
I believe the 'hammered' look of Berry's is due to being in a big drum or some other thing where the bullets are constantly tumbling onto each other during the plating process.