I am finally handloading .223

[Dan W]

Time has come for a few new reloading posts...I have recently become aware of a problem with my quality control related to case sizing.

I was boxing up some 55 gr Hornady SPP  loads, and decided to case gauge them as I went. 

My findings were not good.    Many of the lot of 200 were too long in the headspace area. I surmised the  problem had been a loose die that had backed out a few thousandth of an inch and I failed to check it. 

Since I only bump the shoulders back about .003", I wanted a way to test the cartridges in an exact way, so I put in an order to Midway for a Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage Set with Comparator.
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This tool makes it possible to set the shoulder bump exactly, and to measure the results. Different brass appears to react differently, especially if your lubing technique is inconsistent.

I found, using the comparator gauge, that many cases were .003" longer than the fireformed brass I was using as a zero point. That means a big jam, or not going all the way into battery...not a good thing.

Now I have concluded that I need a special die called a BODY die that only re-sizes a case body and shoulder without resizing or otherwise disturbing the neck.

That means that I can re-size the long cartridges while assembled, and not cause any damage to the bullet or the neck tension and crimp. 

Now I can feel confident that I won't embarrass myself by blowing up an AR15 at the GIRC meeting

[Dan W]

I am bumping this thread up to make it easier to find by new members

[unfy]

Good to see the progression.

Shouldered brass without a full length resize can indeed be slightly troublesome.

I forget earlier posts in the thread, but since you're going for tighter tolerances ... if you haven't separated your brass by brand yet -> do so.  You should also full length size all of your brass at least once and trim and shoot - then work from the fire formed versions.  You're already doing so, but keep lotsa notes - including on how each brand of brass behaves and such.

Concerning old discussion on boat tail etc.  The base of the bullet is very critical.  If you notch the base of the bullet, your MOA will change more than if you bent the spitzer tips over with a hammer.  There's a video somewhere about it with demonstrations.  If boat tail vs other tails are better or not... shoot'em and decide for yourself.  For plinking, I'd just suggest whatever makes loading the bullets easier


And ... seeing the tooling progression, I see you're fully bit by the evil reloading bug.  Downward spiral ahoy! hehehehe....

ONE OF US
ONE OF US
ONE OF US

welcome to the club 

[SemperFiGuy]

Kinda like those movies where they bring in the Brand New Zombie to meet all the Old Zombies.

sfg

[Dan W]

I am bumping this to the top for new members to find it easier

[JimP]

Bumpin'
....done a fair bit of experimenting with .223/5.56 since this thread was started .....  found that a 53 gr TSX driven to 3K f/sec with a max charge of IMR 4064 works well on small deer at short range if they are broadside, and you don't hit the leg bone ...... not so well if one or more of those IF's ain't .....

a 50gr Zmax/Vmax over 1.6cc of H322 makes a good milk jug busting round .....

[Dan W]

I am also working up a 62 gr TSX load, but my recent knee surgery kinda slowed the process a bit

[JimP]

I bought a box of the 62gr TSX and a pound of CFE 223, intending to work up a stouter deer load for my daughter ...... but then decided I needed to stop fiddling around trying to make a varmint round into a deer killer, and built a  .308 WIN for her....... PSA had a great sale and the gun works really well.

[jschenck]

I enjoyed reading this thread - thanks guys! 

So my reloading experience:  I started about 1.5 yrs ago with a Lee single stage assembling 9mm rounds, just to learn the process.  Last year around this time I bought a Savage 12FV in 223 and put a Nikon Monarch-3 on op of it.  What a great rifle to learn on!  I've been learning how to load rifle cartridges.  Tried H335, Varget and CFE223 and a bunch of different types of bullets on top.  I've hit targets at 600 yds but mostly shoot 100 yds. I'm comfortable with stating I can shoot 1moa, maybe better with my 12FV though I haven't settled on the "right recipe" yet as I am learning the process along with the gun and the whole precision shooting concept.

I just got my first gas rifle - a Seekins NX15.  Excited about learning a bit more about loading for it but also realize that loading for an auto, I need to take into consideration the action puts the cartridge through.  Anyway hope I learn enough to not break my expensive rifle. 

I now have a Lee turret press and am loading 38/357, 9mm 308 and 223

Scared myself with a squib load - handed a friend my 686.  Didn't know I had a squib load. Fortunately I saw it and had him pause before the next shot.  My take away from this is to put a nice strong light directly in my press and check every case before putting the pill on top.  This is not a hobby that can tolerate mistakes like this.  Anyway hope someone can heed a lesson from my write-up.

[JimP]

I've been rolling my own for ...... well, since the Clinton Administration ....... just started .223/5.56 the last couple of years ...... those tiny bullets are a PITA on a single stage press .......
  if you have any questions jscenck, I have answers ..... might not be the right ones, but I've learned quite a lot in the last 20 years ......

[shooter]

 I started loading in 1975, I had a type 6 ffl to make and sell reloaded ammo for years.

    If you are loading .223 for a semi auto, you must use small base dies, RCBS makes them

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011716114/rcbs-small-base-2-die-set

     and a C&H taper crimp die, Ive tried all the brands and these work best, some people make combination seater -taper crimp, they DONT WORK,  stick with what works,

    also must trim the brass after sizing. that's the biggest problem people have with reloading brass, slightly different lengths of brass  will collapse the shoulder when seating a bullet. only slightly, but enough to not allow the case to chamber
   

[SemperFiGuy]

also must trim the brass after sizing.

Do What Shooter Sez.
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First,
Check to see if the brass needs trimming.   If you don't have a Go-NOGO gauge, no problem.   You can set your vernier calipers for the maximum trim length and then lock them down with the locking screw.   Then use the calipers as a NOGO gauge.

If the case is too long, then camming the bolt will cram the neck of the case hard into the throat of the chamber.   Doing so will add X-tra bullet crimp at the cartridge neck.   With X-tra hard crimp, chamber pressures can be raised up to NO-NO Levels.  You will want to avoid the higher chamber pressures. 

[Otherwise, the fired cased will then be hard-stuck in the chamber and the bolt will not open.   Then you will hit the bolt with your rubber mallet from your car trunk.   Then you will learn that bolt-handles are brazed on, not integral with the bolt.   You will look for the bolt-handle in the tall grass.  Hopefully, you will find it.   Eventually.  Then you will be glad your brought your Second Rifle in the Same Caliber, so that you do not have to drive 250 miles back home, muttering Things Your Wife Doesn't Want You to Say.   I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS MYSELF.  Just Sayin'....    Best to trim the cartridge cases.]

If the case is too long, then set your cartridge case trimmer down to the minimum.   Then trim, debur, and chamfer, inside and ouside the neck.   Will get more shots between maximum case neck "growth" that way.

RECOMMEND:   Neck-sizing (only) if you run these cartridges back through the same bolt-action rifle each time.   Use Full-sizing if you shoot the cartridges through a semi-automatic rifle.

Have Fun.   Be Safe.

sfg

[Les]

All good advice, mistakes can be costly in more ways than one.