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Author Topic: Muzzle brakes and cans  (Read 2458 times)

Offline bk09

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Muzzle brakes and cans
« on: October 24, 2011, 01:42:21 AM »
First thing on my to do list when I turn 21 in March is to get a .22 and .223 suppressor. For my AR I have yet to take off the flash hider and was wondering how big of a pain it will be to get off when I get a suppressor. Will I be able to interchange them easily or will I have to torque the crap out of a flash hider if I want to reattach it? And quick detach suppressors seem out of the question because I haven't read vary many impressive reviews. After forgetting my muffs at the range this past weekend I cannot wait to get a suppressor, little over 100 rounds and I felt like i was wearing earplugs for the next day. Thanks in advance!
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Offline gsd

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2011, 07:40:29 AM »
most flash hiders are permanently attatched to the barrels, unless otherwise stated.

in .22 i know for a fact that nearly all walther p22's have threaded barrels, at least mine did.
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Offline bkoenig

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2011, 09:23:56 AM »
AR flash hiders are usually not permanently attached unless it was done to bring a 14.5 barrel up to 16".  A crush or peel washer is usually used to align it.  Even though it's not permanent it's not really practical to swap back and forth between a can and a brake/flash hider.  Crush washers are not reuseable, and in order to remover or install a flash hider without buggering up your rifle you really need a barrel or receiver vise.  It can sometimes take a significant amount of torque to align everything, so you need the vise to hold it securely.  If you plan on swapping a can between different barrels I would just get a screw on thread protector to use when the can is elsewhere.
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Offline Burnsy87

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2011, 09:24:59 AM »
Quote from: bradkoll on October 24, 2011, 01:42:21 AM
First thing on my to do list when I turn 21 in March is to get a .22 and .223 suppressor. For my AR I have yet to take off the flash hider and was wondering how big of a pain it will be to get off when I get a suppressor. Will I be able to interchange them easily or will I have to torque the crap out of a flash hider if I want to reattach it? And quick detach suppressors seem out of the question because I haven't read vary many impressive reviews. After forgetting my muffs at the range this past weekend I cannot wait to get a suppressor, little over 100 rounds and I felt like i was wearing earplugs for the next day. Thanks in advance!

What QD suppressor mounting systems have poor reviews?  People rave about YHM Phantom's, especially for their inexpensive price compared to everyone else.  AAC may have serious customer service issues, but their MITER mounting system is supposedly outstanding.

Also, who said most flash hiders were permanent?  That isn't the case at all on AR's, unless it has a barrel around 14.5" and they want to permanently attach the flash suppressor to get to the legal 16" barrel length.

Edit:  Ha, well done bkoenig, you beat me.
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Offline RobertH

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2011, 09:50:41 AM »
OP, please keep us updated.  i would realy like to know what you go with and why.  im looking to do the same thing, sometime in the near future.
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Offline Wesley D

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2011, 11:02:43 AM »
+1 to Koenig and Burnsy.

Unless your AR flash hider is Ag soldered or permanently pinned (like on a barrel that's <16" to bring the total length out of the sbr range), it should be easy to take off with an armorer's wrench and an AR upper block that you use to hold it in a vice.  I've done it with little trouble. 

Regarding choosing cans, for what you're looking to do with multiple rifles, consider the YHM 308 Phantom QD for a relatively affordable can that will fit your AR and your .30 cals.  With it, you install a YHM QD flash hider on each rifle and just swap the can as you like.  You'll find as you research that many people don't like shooting .22 through their center fire cans because .22 is so dirty and unjacketed bullets leave lead fouling in the can.  If you're going to use it for .223 and .22, then make sure that your can is easily disassembled for cleaning or completely stainless so the whole thing can be dipped in a H2O2/CH3COOH solution (research this thoroughly before attempting, as the resulting solution after cleaning is lead acetate, which is extremely toxic and requires special handling and disposal) for cleaning lead fouling - otherwise you have to ship it back to the manufacturer for cleaning when it gets mucked up after 1000s of rounds.  A lot of people go with a center fire can in 308 (that also works for your smaller cals) and a rim fire can for .22s.  Besides, you don't want a big, heavy center fire can hanging off the end of your P22, Mosquito, or MkIII pistol...  ;)

Talk to Rob at Exeter Arms and he'll let you test drive some of his inventory before you buy. 

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Offline gsd

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2011, 01:33:37 PM »
My bad, coffee apparently hadn't taken effect when i replied this morning, i was coming from a sub16 inch barrel aspect.
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Offline bk09

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2011, 02:19:09 PM »
Oh and for the record I wasn't planning on buying just 1 can and swapping between .22 and .223, I was planning on getting 2 separate ones. But I was wondering if it would be worth it for me to buy a new muzzle brake for my AR now(just because I want one) and still be able to use it with little swapping effort once I get a suppressor. Bkoenig gets a thumbs up from me, letting me know the peel/crush washer isn't reusable was what I needed.

This leads to another question, someone said I could just use a regular thread protector, what is so different about installing a muzzle brake compared to a thread protector? If a thread protector wasn't torqued on then shouldn't it come loose due to the vibrations of lots of shooting?
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Offline bkoenig

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2011, 02:59:46 PM »
Brad,

A peel washer actually is reusable, I believe.  A crush washer is not. 

The thread protector coulf be tightened down enough by hand to prevent it coming loose, I think.  A brake would need to be timed, so that is probably going to require more torque than can be done without a vise.  It's totally possible to switch between a brake and a can, I just think it sounds like it would be a lot of trouble.
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Offline bk09

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2011, 09:01:43 PM »
Alright that clears up everything, thanks Bkoenig!
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Offline David Hineline

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Re: Muzzle brakes and cans
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2011, 11:23:41 PM »
The 21 restriction is only if you buy from a dealer, you can build your own NFA firearm or buy from a private individual at age 18.

For a rapid fire gun a locking quick mount is the best.  You will have to constantly check the silencer if it is tight between shots or it's baffle strike time.

AAC, and YHM mounts are top notch rock solid.

A bolt action rifle is well served by a light weight screw on mount.

If you make it up to the Sioux City area I can take you out and demo a couple things so you have a good understanding of what the sound reduction is.
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