Just started reloading... recommendations re: neck sizer?

[CitizenClark]

So after a long time talking about reloading, I finally bit the bullet and got started. I acquired a reloading setup from GreyGeek, and I've reloaded about ninety .308 Winchester cartridges so far. I fired off almost twenty from my first batch this past Friday and they grouped well (though shooting from a modified "California" sitting position I didn't exactly find out what they are capable of in terms of precision), with no signs of unsafe pressures generated, etc.

I read that for brass that is going to be reused in the same bolt gun, full-length resizing is usually unnecessary and hard on the brass, and that neck sizing is preferable most of the time. I am using a Lee single-stage press with Lee dies. What decapper/neck sizing die should I get?

Here is some of what I have reloaded so far (be gentle):

[unfy]

I'm personally indifferent on brand of neck sizing die.... or dies in general (mostly).

While there are some nuanced differences between brands of dies such as how their retaining nuts are secured, and a few other things... but dies are dies as far as I'm concerned (until you get into competition seating dies).

So and so's tungsten carbide dies will be similar to who so ever's, etc.  There *are* differences and they may be important to you, but after trying dies from 3 different manufacturers, they all function fine in my humble opinion.


In regards to neck sizing vs full length.

You should full length size the brass at least once.

From there, on bolt action guns... neck sizing only is great for getting brass to last longer (you're reworking it far less) and for gaining accuracy / precision (since the brass is now formed to your chamber, making a better seal).

Semi auto's and lever action... should be full length resized usually due to strength of the action (ie: neck sized only more prone to jam in these kinds of guns).

[unfy]

BTW - forgot my chant:

One of us...

One of us...

One of us...

One of us...

One of us...

One of us...

One of us...

[bkoenig]

I'm personally indifferent on brand of neck sizing die.... or dies in general (mostly).

While there are some nuanced differences between brands of dies such as how their retaining nuts are secured, and a few other things... but dies are dies as far as I'm concerned (until you get into competition seating dies).

So and so's tungsten carbide dies will be similar to who so ever's, etc.  There *are* differences and they may be important to you, but after trying dies from 3 different manufacturers, they all function fine in my humble opinion.


In regards to neck sizing vs full length.

You should full length size the brass at least once.

From there, on bolt action guns... neck sizing only is great for getting brass to last longer (you're reworking it far less) and for gaining accuracy / precision (since the brass is now formed to your chamber, making a better seal).

Semi auto's and lever action... should be full length resized usually due to strength of the action (ie: neck sized only more prone to jam in these kinds of guns).

I second all of this.  The Lee neck sizers have a good reputation and are relatively cheap.

When you reload some rimmed cartridges neck sizing is almost mandatory since they headspace off the rim instead of the shoulder.  303 British, for example.  Lee-Enfields have extremely generous chamber dimensions and if you full length size them you'll end up with a case head separation after only a few loads.  What happens is the shoulder gets pushed back by the sizer, then on firing it flows back out to fill the chamber.  All that back and forth weakens the brass until it finally lets go and you get a face full of hot gas.

[CitizenClark]

I went out to Lincoln Ike's with another batch of reloads. Seven different batches, actually.

Here are the results from my Savage 110FP at 100yds:















The 180gr stuff beat me up pretty good, so some of that inconsistency is likely my shooting and not the ammo.

[bkoenig]

Looks like the 150gr Hornady is showing some promise.  In my experience, finding the right bullet for your barrel is about 75% of developing a good load.  Some guns are more picky than others, though.  It could just be that the 180 grain bullet is right on the edge of being stabilized by your rifle.  Do you know what the twist rate is? 

[OnTheFly]

I am new to reloading and can only relate information which has been given to me by my more experienced reloading friends.  I'm sure the following is unusual, but I thought it was very interesting.  A reloading friend was talking to another shooter who was very dissatisfied with a brand name rifle he had purchased.  Apparently his accuracy was all over the place and he was about ready to give up on the rifle.  My friend offered to take the rifle and work up a load for it since he shot high power and understood most of the factors involved in loading for rifle accuracy. 

My friend tried to work up a load, but ran into the same problems as the rifle's owner.  One factor to consider, as you are probably aware of, is jam/jump of the bullet.  My friend was trying to load the round so that the bullet was up in the chamber and had minimal jump.  From his experience, this provided the best stabilization for the bullet.  When he had tried everything he could think of, he called the rifle manufacturer (or maybe it was the bullet manufacturer...possibly both) and found that he needed to let the bullet jump a little to the chamber.  Voila! He had a very accurate round for that particular rifle.

He gave the rifle back to the owner along with the reloading recipe, and they lived happily ever after. 

Fly

[unfy]

Hornady's reloading manual talks about seating distance from the rifling.

Some folks like to load them either on the rifling ... which I've never particularly cared for.

Most will load them just a hair off from the grooves (my preference, and I believe most folks).

But... with most generalisms, there are exceptions looks like Fly's friend's barrel is a prime example 

[M7025-06]

Buy any name-brand neck sizing die and you'll be fine.  I use Reddings only because that was the brand of neck die I bought and decided to stick with them.

Looks like you're off to good start with the 150 gr. load. 

Like Unfy said, play around with the seating depths to find that sweet spot for your rifle.

I like to find a load with potential accuracy and velocity wise, then adjust the seating depth up and down by 0.005''-0.010'' to fine tune it.  Seems to work pretty well. 

Keep up the good work.  Welcome to the sickness  . 

[Hank]

I use a Lee NS Die for a couple rifles.
I also like to use a Lee universal de-capping die.
I think you have a couple loads that show promise, both 150g and 180g. .662" and a .990"
From my experience and looking at your results, if not some type of rifle rest, then at least some sand bags or rolled up towels for a rest will show much better results.
I use a shooters ridge rifle rest from my wobbly picnic table (not sturdy like having a rest anchored to a concrete table). Some might argue that(rest) shouldn`t be needed, but for me, I feel it removes some shooter error and allows for better load development.
Practice you California squat after you find a good combo (IMO).